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| "La Pila del Rey", also known as "Chacalán", "el Santuario", "los petroglífos" and "the Altavista petroglyphs", is an archeological and scenic attraction by Jaltemba Bay.
More than two thousand years ago an Aztecan tribe, the Tecoxquines, chipped images into the volcanic rock along the arroyo (seasonal stream) las Piletas. The petroglyphs are believed to be symbolic of the concerns and the yearnings of the people, for health and fertility, the return of the rains, successful crops. The rock carvings might have been meant as prayers or offerings to the gods responsible for these things. After the arrival of the Conquistadors in the early 16th century, the twin scourges of disease and forced servitude led to the extinction of the Tecoxquin. Today the site of the petroglyphs holds religious significance for the native Huichol. Archeologists have located more than 2000 carvings in an area of more than 80 hectares (200 acres); the casual visitor can see seventy or more without too much effort. A series of fifteen signs in Spanish and English are posted along the path, giving some explanation and historical context to the site. Beyond seeing these artifacts of an ancient society, a visit to the petroglyphs will lead you on a pleasant walk through tropical forest. Perhaps a kilometer from the entrance, you'll reach the most sacred area of this site. The Piletas flows down over a series of rock shelves and through small pools it has carved over the eons; beside it are high vertical walls of basalt covered with ferns, Philodendrons, and other forest plants. All around and above are native palms, trees with flaking red bark, bromeliads, and other flora of the tropical forest. The greatest concentration of carvings is here. This is a peaceful, magical place to sit and contemplate, listen to the water flowing over the rocks, watch the butterflies, wander about. Near a place of offerings in this beautiful sanctuary stands a Ceiba tree, the most important tree of the Aztecs and the Mayans and other ancient Mesoamerican people, joining all the creatures of earth with the water world below the surface and the world of the gods above. |
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The site of the petroglyphs can be difficult to reach, even difficult to find. The route is unmarked; once you've found the road to Altavista you're on your own. Sections of the road are cobblestone, but most is dirt. In some places you'll need more ground clearance than a family car provides, and there are a couple of cattle fences where someone needs to get out of the vehicle and open and CLOSE the gate. On the other hand, we've seen a combi (a van in service as a taxi for a dozen or more people) arrive there. Walking from the main road is an option; it might take a half to three-quarters of an hour without any real hill climbing involved.
The petroglyphs are eroded and, in many cases, the rocks they're carved on have cracked or chunks have flaked off. A lot of them can be hard to discern. If you want to see them at their best, avoid midday when the overhead sun will wash out the relief of the carvings. In the future we'll give you a rough map and directions to help you find your way. But keep in mind that this site is still in use for native religious practices and is not a place for busloads of noisy tourists. Come interested, come open to the experience, and come quietly. |
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